Archive for May, 2009

Why I use Japanese Chef Knives

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009

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Do you remember those plastic gray samurai swords we played with as kids?  The ones we engaged in epic battles of clanking synthetic with friends and smaller siblings until one would bend and stretch to the point that the worn whiteness encircling the blade rendered it useless in combat.  (It  may be sufficient to slap a younger sibling around, but nothing more).

I will share a story of when I purchased my first Japanese chef knife.  I was working the kitchen at one of my former jobs as a Sous Chef and was called upon to help as a morning chef for breakfast banquets. At this time I only used german kives (such as henckels or wustoff).  My kitchen tasks have always been more of the manager sort.  I balance accounts, find special purveyors, write specials, do special projects for chefs, expedite dinner service, and deal with clients.  I had stepped away from working as a line cook being one of the warriors that make our culinary world so fierce and exciting.  But, with the purchase of my first santoku blade I had re-enlisted again.

Upon grasping its light wide blade, memories of whipping my sister down in the samurai glory of my youth returned.  The blade glides effortlessly through vegetables, meat, and fish with a beautiful precision and ease that surpasses the fantasies of younger days.  Perhaps this nostalgia is perpetuated by the fact that my sister is an adult now and I can’t whip her down anymore.  I can, however; dismember a whole organic chicken with a grace and skill of a culinary ninja.

The story of the Japanese chef knife goes back over 1200 years and is rich in the history of samurai and kitana sword making.  Today’s chef knives are gorged in the tradition of methods used by sword craftsmen.  Traditional Japanese knives like swords, are sharpened on one side of the blade to allow for a sharper cutting edge.  This technique lends itself to more sensitive culinary work such as separating delicate fish flesh from bones and turning vegetables into thin sheets.  Like its predecssor in weaponry, these knives are designed for optimum serration and precision.  The knives true to their ancestor’s swift and impeccably designed forms are well worth the investment.

The Korin Collection based in New York City offers both traditional Japanese pieces and western-style knives.  The truth is knives of this caliber have a special feeling that is hard to translate into words.  I knew the santoku was the knife for me the moment I grasped the blade.  The sword was the very essence of the samurai tradition and thankfully has filtered into today’s culinary world.  Thanks to many skilled craftsmen and new availability we are now able to enjoy the benefits of the same Japanese blade used by many legendary warriors of the past.  Of course, our battles now lie in the kitchen butchering and preparing dishes for our patrons.  While I highly recommend purchasing one for yourself, I must warn that the blade cuts much deeper than those plastic swords of our youth.  Trust me, I know.

What is a crockpot?

Friday, May 22nd, 2009

During one of my cooking classes I used a crockpot to melt and hold chocolate and one of the attendees commented” look he uses a crockpot too”. I actually don’t. I only used the crockpot for  melting and holding chocolate at a slow steady temperature. The commercial chocolate tempering machines cost about $ 500 to $600 and a crockpot cost about $50. If your into real slow cooking and developing a great flavor of braised or stewed items use my suggestions below . I had to hit my old culinary school notes for the information (yeah Culinary Institute of

America) and here is what I have.

Guide to slow cooking equipment

While the basic principle for slow cooking – combining meat, vegetables, liquid and seasonings in a single pot – is the same, the actual cooking method and times vary widely according to the equipment you use. Here’s a handy guide to the four main types of equipment used for slow cooking.

Stockpot

A stockpot is a large pot with two handles and a lid, usually made from stainless steel or aluminum. Stockpots vary in capacity with the larger ones often taller than they are wide.How it works - a stockpot works the same way as an ordinary saucepan, only it’s designed for larger quantities.
 

Why use it? Cooking in a stockpot on the direct heat of the stovetop means you can adjust the heat easily. Once the food is cooked, you can also remove it from the cooking liquid and increase the heat to reduce and thicken the sauce before serving.  Stockpots also tend to be larger than other slow-cooking devices, so they’re useful if you want to make larger quantities and freeze the food in batches.
 

A buying tip - choose a good-quality stockpot with a heavy base so you can brown meat before adding other ingredients. This will also prevent food from sticking to the base during cooking.

Casserole

A casserole is a double-handled deep oven proof dish that has a tight-fitting lid. It’s made from glass, ceramic, earthenware or any other heatproof material.How it works - to make a casserole meat is browned on the stovetop before being placed in the dish with vegetables, liquid and herbs. The dish is then placed in the oven to cook gently until the meat is tender.
Why use it?  Cooking in a casserole dish in the indirect heat of the oven allows the heat to circulate around the dish rather than just heating the base. This means the ingredients are less Likely to burn onto the base of the dish.
 

Buying tip - for one-pot cooking, you’ll need a casserole dish that’s made from flameproof material such as cast iron.  You can use it both on the stovetop and in the oven. If your dish isn’t flameproof, brown the meat in a large frying pan on your stovetop before transferring it to the dish to cook in the oven.

Slow cooker

Also known as a crockpot, a slow cooker is an electrical appliance that usually features a removable heatproof pot set inside a metal outer casing. It has a transparent lid and two or more temperature settings.How it works?  When cooked on the lowest setting, the food maintains a very low temperature so it cooks more gently and for a longer period of time than other slow-cooking methods. Most of the heat comes from the side, so you need to fill the pot between half and three-quarters full. A slow cooker can also be used to keep the food warm until ready to serve.
 

Why use it?  A slow cooker is very convenient.  Place all the ingredients in the pot and leave it to cook during the day or overnight.  Since the heat is so low, it’s unlikely food will overcook, and less likely that it would dry out or stick to the pot.

Buying tip - look for a slow cooker with a removable pot so it’s easy to clean.  Make sure it has the heating element in the sides of the appliance not just in the base.

Pressure cooker

A pressure cooker looks similar to a stockpot except for its lid which is designed to lock onto the pot to create a tight seal.How it works.  When the pot is placed over high heat, the liquid inside boils and creates steam. As steam is trapped inside the pot, the pressure builds and the boiling point of the liquid increases. The steam gradually escapes out of a regulator on the lid. Before opening the lid it’s vital to safely release the pressure inside or the contents can explode. It’s also essential to add the right amount of liquid or the food won’t cook properly.
 

Why use it?  A pressure cooker achieves the same results as conventional slow-cooking methods in a fraction of the time.
 

Buying tip - choose a heavy-based pressure cooker so the food doesn’t cook onto the base.  Modern pressure cookers are easier and safer to use than traditional models. It’s best to choose a stovetop model since electric ones have fewer safety features and tend to operate at lower temperatures so the food can take longer to cook.

How to prepare meat for slow cooking

For flavor, brown the meat in small batches on the stovetop in a stockpot, large frying pan, or flameproof casserole dish before slow cooking. Here’s how:

Step 1: Place flour on a plate and season with salt and pepper. Add the meat and toss until well coated in the flour. Shake off any excess. The flour helps seal the meat and thicken the sauce. If you slow cook the meat after coating it in flour without browning it first the dish will have a floury taste.Step 2:  Heat oil in a flameproof casserole dish, stockpot or large frying pan over medium heat.  Add meat. Cook, turning occasionally for 2-3 minutes or until golden brown. Transfer to a plate.  Work in batches so the meat browns evenly.  If you add too much it may start to stew in its own juices and become tough.Step 3: If you’re using a flameproof casserole dish or stockpot, return the meat to the dish and add the remaining ingredients, such as vegetables, liquid ingredients, and herbs and spices. If you’re using a large frying pan, transfer the meat and other ingredients to an ovenproof dish, slow cooker or pressure cooker, depending on which cooking method you’re using to cook the dish.

Guide to slow cooking cuts

Tougher cuts of meat are ideal for slow cooking – they’re great value for money and have loads of flavor. The gentle cooking process gradually breaks down the connective tissue until the meat is very tender and juicy. If you buy meat on the bone, you’ll get even more flavor for your sauce. Here’s a handy guide to the best cuts of meat for slow cooking.Beef: • Chuck steak • Round steak • Blade steak • Topside • Fresh silverside • Skirt steak• Boneless shin (gravy) beefVeal: • Osso bucco (shin slices)Lamb: • Boneless shoulder • Boneless forequarter • Shanks • Neck chops • Best neck chopsChicken: • Any chicken pieces, such as thigh pieces or drumsticks (but those on the bone are ideal for slow cooking)Pork: • Diced pork shoulder • Forequarter chops • Pork neck 

 

Tim JonesExecutive Chef   

8120 Wisconsin Avenue


Bethesda, MD

20814
Timothy_Jones@hilton.comPhone 301.652.2000 ext 822The New OZ. Restaurant … a healthy approach to fine dining. 

Weekend Cooking Tips From The Chef

Monday, May 18th, 2009

Let ingredients do double duty.  Use the same ingredient in more than one dish.  Not in the same meal but on another day.  For example, prepare a stock on the weekend using half for soup and the other half in another creation.  If you shave carrots for a salad this evening, slice some up for tomorrow.  Wrap and refrigerate them and later you can drop them in boiling water to serve as a side dish a day or two later.

 When you crush your own spices in a mortar and pestle you are in control and they are fresher.

If you stand steaks up on the fat edge in a grill pan or griddle (stove top) for a minute or two prior to cooking there is no need for extra fat in the pan.  Substitute beef sirloin or filet for grilled New York strip steaks in a salad, if desired.

If you have leftover red or white wine freeze it in ice cube trays and pull out a few at a time to deglaze (steak or chicken) cooking pans.  Or you can use in sauces, vinaigrette dressings, chilis, or in braising beef stews and the like.

Take a cooking class with me!

Wednesday, May 13th, 2009

A quick Internet search or browse through the phone book (remember those?) and no matter where you live you are likely to find several places where you can learn to chop, braise, and saute from a pro.  Taking a recreational cooking class will give you an opportunity to learn a new skill or two.  You will go home with several new recipes in hand.  Besides the recipes you will also have a chance to bounce your cooking questions off a trained professional like myself.

My cooking classes are hands-on where you will actually get to cook.  Other classes are demonstrations where you get to sit back and watch the instructor in action.  Either way you will leave with some level of familiarity with the recipes making it more likely that you will give them a go at home. 

Every month I host a class based on themes from Mother/Daughter cooking to Thrill on the Grill.  I hope you can come and join me for one.

Cooking Rice

Tuesday, May 12th, 2009

I just purchased a rice cooker for my home.  I am tired of using Uncle Ben’s for my stir fry’s and would like to make some proper jasmine rice.  Wow!  What a difference it makes to have the same rice you would find in a nice Asian restaurant at home and cooked to perfection.  Now that I have got the rice cooker, my next mission is to get a decent wok to make the stir fry in the traditional fashion instead of using a saute pan.   I did some research on rice and figured I would share my findings with you since I really took it to heart on how cooking something as simple as rice is an art.  I recall my trips to Japan to learn true Japanese cooking techniques.  I was only allowed to watch for the first couple of days before they would allow me to make my first batch of sticky rice.

Rice is the seed of a grass plant, a relative of other cereals such as wheat and oats.  It has a potential place in many meals and provides nutrition for over half the world’s population.  It is a semi-aquatic plant and can be grown in many parts of the world, including Australia.  A grain of rice is comprised of the hull, the bran, and the kernal.  The hull is inedible.  The bran is the layer that gives brown rice its color and extra nutritional value.  The bran is often removed, leaving only the white rice kernel.  Rice is gluten-free, low fat, and is jammed packed with carboyhdrates and protein making it a good source of energy.  There are several varieties - each best suited to a different purpose.

Varieties

Sushi Rice

Sushi rice is a short-grain rice also know as glutinous rice which referes to its slightly sticky consistency and glossy appearance once cooked.  It is ideal for use in Japanese cuisine.  For best results, soak the rice for approximately 30 minutes before cooking.

Arborio Rice

Arborio rice is a medium-grain rice commonly used in Mediterranean dishes such as risotto and paella.  The creaminess of these dishes is due to the starch in the rice which should not be rinsed before cooking.  The grain absorbs the flavors of other ingredients becoming tender yet maintaining shape.

Medium-Grain White Rice

Medium-grain white rice is a tender grain and well adapted to many cuisines.  It is suibable for use in soups, casseroles, and puddings.

Long-Grain Rice

Long-grain rice is a versatile and popular variety primarily used on its own as a side dish or as the base for rice salads or fried rice.  The grains have a firm, fluffy texture and separate easily.

Jasmine Rice

Jasmine rice shares the qualities of other long-grain white rice.  It is slightly stickier and has a mild jasmine fragrance.  It is believed to have originated in Thailand and is traditionally served with Thai cuisine.

Basmati Rice

Basmati rice is usually served with Indian and Middle Eastern cuisine.  The slender grains should be soaked for approximately 30 minutes before cooking.  The grains elongate during cooking and are fluffy and mildly fragrant when cooked.

Brown Rice

Brown rice is the least processed of the rice varieties.  It retains the bran layer and therefore; contains more nutritional benefits than white varieties.  However, it also takes longer to cook than white rice.  It has a chewy texture and mildly nutty flavor.  It is available in medium and long grain.

Wild Rice

Wild rice is not technically a type of rice but the seed of an aquatic grass.  It has a nutty flavor and dark contrasting color which makes it popular for mixing with regular rice.  You can purchase it already mixed with white or brown rice.

QuickCook Rice 

Quick cook rice is available in a number of varieties that have been processed in order to shorten cooking time.  The method of processing varies from brand to brand.  Some partially cook the rice while others are fully cooked and mixed with oil.  The rice can then be cooked in just 90 seconds in the microwave.

Buying and Storage

Rice is available from supermarkets and should be stored in a air tight container in a cool dark place for up to a year.

Local Asparagus Is Here!

Thursday, May 7th, 2009

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The first spring vegetables rhubarb and asparagus have officially arrived.  Canned or frozen asparagus does not compare to fresh asparagus.  Unlike canned asparagus, fresh asparagus is firm and crisp and it does not have the strong odor of canned asparagus.  Ever try to grill canned asparagus?  I haven’t and don’t plan to.  A simple way to prepare fresh asparagus is to grease it up with olive oil and put it on the grill!  Like rhubarb, asparagus has a high level of acidity that doesn’t react well with aluminum or iron.  So when you cook asparagus don’t use uncoated or untreated cookware.  If you do, the vegetable and the pan will turn brown.

Before you start cooking you will need to do a little prep work.  If you are especially picky about how good you want your asparagus to look then line up all your asparagus, flush and trim them to the same length.  All asparagus stalks should be cut off at the point where the green begins to fade into white.  Next, if you have thick, older stalks you will want to peel away the tough skin.  Any vegetable peeler will do the trick.  Just don’t peel the tips.  If you have young, thin stalks then peeling isn’t necessary.

With all fresh vegetables it is best to keep the cooking methods simple.  Grill it, steam it, or roast it.  Boiling asparagus is not recommended because it can easily overcook leading to a mushy mess not unlike canned asparagus.  If you grill it use a grill basket - the ones you see in all the super markets and wonder what they are for.  You do not want to be fishing asparagus out of a bed of hot coals!

On the subject of grilling methods I prefer charcoal to gas.  Charoal is what gives food a grilled flavor.  If you are going to use gas you might as well be cooking inside.  My friend, Gregg Thrasher, is a master of charcoal grilling and he grills year around.  He does not know it yet but someday soon he is going to be the focus of one of my blogs.

Back to asparagus.  Drizzle it with extra-virgin olive oil and grill over medium heat until you start to see dark brown charred spots.  Roasting asparagus is the next best thing to grilling it.  When you roast it you get the same charred spots that somehow bring out new depths of flavor.  To roast asparagus drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and spread out in a single layer in  a glass or ceramic baking pan.  Roast at 450 degrees for 11 to 17 minutes.  Here is a recipe for asparagus soup from some of my old culinary school notes.

Asparagus Soup

1/4 cup butter

1 medium onion - chopped

1 celery stalk with leaves - chopped

4 cups of chicken or vegetable broth

3 lbs of asparagus cut into one-inch pieces (tips reserved)

2 potatoes peeled and diced

2 Tbsp minced fresh basil

2 cups of cream

Salt and Pepper to taste

2 Tsp. water

Melt butter in a large (non-reactive) saucepan.  Add onion,  celery, and saute two or three minutes to soften.  Add broth, asparagus stalk pieces, 2/3 of the asparagus tips, potatoes, and basil.

Cover and cook stirring occasionally until vegetables are tender.  About 20 minutes.

Puree soup in batches in blender or food processor.  Return puree to pan, stir in cream, season with salt and white pepper.  Add water if the soup is too thick.  Warm over low heat.

Blanch remaining asparagus.  Spoon soup into warmed bowls and garnish with asparagus tips.  Makes 8 servings.

Asparagus facts from www.asparagus.org

Asparagus is a member of the Lily family.

Under ideal conditions an asparagus spear can grow 10″ in a 24 hour period.

Each crown will send spears up for about 6-7 weeks during the spring and early summer.

The outdoor temperature determines how much time will be between each picking.  Early in the season there may be 4-5 days between pickings and as the days and nights get warmer a particular field may have to be picked every 24 hours.

After harvesting is done the spears grow into ferns which produce red berries and the food and nutrients necessary for a healthy and productive crop the next season.

A well cared for asparagus planting will generally produce for about 15 years without being replanted.

White and Purple Asparagus

White asparagus which is milder in flavor, a little more tender than green asparagus, is kept buried under a mound of dirt depriving it of light.  If there is not light there is no chlorophyll to turn it green.  Fresh white asparagus is hard to come by in the United States.  It is more commonn in Europe but you can find it in canned jars.  There is also purple or violet asparagus which has a very thick stalk.  It is typically found in England and Italy.

Make Your Mother’s Day Brunch Easy

Monday, May 4th, 2009

Gathering the family for Mother’s Day brunch does not have to be complicated for the cook if you select simple recipes and get everyone to pitch in with the preparation, serving, and clean up.  You can ask your guests to bring a dish to share and assign jobs to even the youngest helpers.  Little ones can fold napkins and put place mats on the table.  Older children can help assemble the ingredients for casseroles and salads.  Casseroles that can be popped into the oven as guests arrive are perfect because they free up your time while they bake.  Most of them can be held at serving temperature for a few minutes if brunch starts a little late.  Fruit salad is another great dish for brunch.  Most fruit and dressings can be prepared the night before then tossed together quickly just before serving.  Unless you have plenty of help skip making bread and pick up something special at your favorite bakery.  Do not feel obligated to serve dessert after brunch.  If you think your guests will be dissappointed without dessert you can serve a scoop of sherbet with a cookie.  Nothing could be easier.