Archive for August, 2009

Hybrids of the Summer Pluots, Apriums, and More

Monday, August 24th, 2009

When is a plum not a plum?  When it’s a pluot… or a plumcot, or an aprium.  While summer stone fruits were once relatively predictable peaches, apricots, plums, nectarines, and not a whole lot else today.  The summer fruit stands are stocked with all sorts of hybrids.  The crossbred fruit phenomenon has roots stretching back to the nineteenth century, but widespread success only in the modern day.

As quoted from NPR “the first hybrid of this nature was a plumcot half plum, half apricot, a genetic split down the middle”.  But Zaiger’s Genetics, a company in Modesto, California has spent the last few decades creating and then patenting an awful lot more. 

Like the aprium, about one-quarter plum and three quarters apricot, with an apricot’s fuzzy exterior but a plum’s sweet, juicy interior.  Or the pluot, three-fifths plum and two-fifths apricot, with a plum’s veneer but a softer bite.  Plus the nectaplum, nectarcot, and even a “peacotum” - a three-way cross between a peach, apricot, and plum.  Not just simple crosses, these hybrids are selectively bred over a number of years, with attention to flavor, texture, and color.

As a result, they often end up sweeter and more intensely flavored than stone fruits bred less rigorously.  Whether eaten out of hand or worked into a dish, pluots and apriums are fantastic summer treats.  NPR offers a number of recipes for the fruits.  What are some of your favorites?

The coffee addictions are almost over

Tuesday, August 18th, 2009

For years now, Starbucks strongest asset has been its brand.  The Starbucks logo has enabled the company to open coffee shops across the nation and the globe with a promise of custom espresso drinks in a comfortable cafe.

It may not be the world’s best coffee, but its name recognition and consistency have driven its success.  But now, some of its cafes are actually getting rid of the cookie cutter company image, still under corporate ownership, but dropping the Starbucks name.

Last week a Seattle Starbucks repopened as 15th Avenue Coffee and Tea: a “local” coffee shop with its own Starbucks vibe.

Gone are the frappuccinos, plastic wrapped foods, and familiar green logo.  In are specialty coffees, french presses, dog watering dishes, rough wooden tables, and a beer and liquor license.  Trying to give the cafe a “local” feel there will be music nights, poetry readings, food from nearby Pike Place Market, and indivdually sourced furniture.

Even before its opening, the cafe has drawn an enormous amount of media attention and if the experiment is successful, Starbucks may follow with additional “local” cafes first in Seattle, then in other markets.

Currently, we might try something similar here at our coffee shop.  Shameless marketing, ploy, or genuinely a smart idea?  You decide.

My two cents on culinary schools

Monday, August 10th, 2009

As the chef of the OZ I get asked questions about being a chef and culinary schools all the time.  So, I figured I would give my two cents on the subject.

There are so many culinary schools in existence today that the pool of students graduating with a solid foundation may possibly be diluted.  The underlying need to keep enrollment up has often lowered the standards of acceptance basing admittance entirely on whether the student can pay.

The bottom line is that many schools are businesses and the need to make sales - getting more student enrollment.

Slick commercials and mass media paint a picture of an exciting career that most students will never realize of long days, working holidays, and low pay for the first few years. 

Most graduates without prior industry experience will have limited opportunities and will fill the demand for low paying entry level food service and contract feeding positions.

The truly talented, naturally born cooks and chefs will progress and fulfill their dreams of becoming a chef.  Don’t get me wrong, I am a big fan of a quality culinary education.  I also realize that many people have limited resources and must take advantage of any opportunity available to them. 

When I applied to the Culinary Institute of America, I received a response stating that I would need one additional year of cooking experience before I was officially accepted.  There was an expectation from the school that I would at least have some level of kitchen savvy and experience which would help me on my journey.

As I interview prospective cooks I can’t help but to have sympathy for applicants who tell me that they have never worked in a kitchen.  When questioned on what has prepared them for a career in the culinary world many say that they have worked in a similar fast paced environment such as a factory assembly line or a call center.  I am the first to say that a great work ethic, determination, and the will to succeed will get you far in life, but you still have to execute the daily functions of the job.   The bottom line is that a school is just that, a school and not the real world.

The right combination of past practical experience and advanced instruction should come together and give the student a foundation that will ensure some level of success in the industry.  A Culinary school’s reputation and ultimately the value of their diploma rest solely on the quality of the graduates.  A side bar note, 60% of people leaving culinary school end up leaving the industry after the first year of real restaurant work.  Just some food for thought before you venture down the road of “chef-dom”.

“Let’s Go Get Stoned” As so proclaimed by Ray Charles

Monday, August 3rd, 2009

Think what you want, but I’m talking stone fruit, particularly peaches.  They are at their peak, and you had better consume as many as possible, because in a short while, we will be back to the tasteless, scentless, dry hardballs that masquerade for this type of fruit the rest of the year.  It is a pleasant experience to be able to walk through the mega-markets any time of the year and see all varieties of  fruit on display.  Whatever happened to seasons?  A lot of folks don’t even realize when fruits and vegetables are in season and at their peak.  The only real way of knowing is to frequent the farmer’s market; the fields don’t lie. 

As a youth, I grew up in an old Italian style neighborhood where we had fruit stands that would feature only seasonal items with some staples as well and couldn’t wait until the summer when my favorite fruit, the peach was .99 cents a pound and we would get 5 pounds at a clip.

My peach soup is inspired by that memory and could be a light appetizer or main course luncheon dish with a crisp salad.  But you also can think dessert as it would fit in nicely after a hot afternoon of grilling.  With the addition of the yogurt and hazelnuts, I am sure you will find it “stone-cold delicious.”

Grilled Peach Soup with Yogurt and Hazelnuts          

Makes 6 to 8 servings

2 1/2 pounds fresh peaches plus 2 additional peaches (divided)

3 1/2 cups dry white wine

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons of sugar

1 vanilla bean, split

One 2-inch cinnamon stick

2 star anise

1 bay leaf

3/4 tablespoon black peppercorns, crushed

Pinch of salt

1 cup good quality plain yogurt for garnish

1/2 cup toasted and salted hazelnuts, cut into quarters

Preheat grill to high

Cut the 2 1/2 pounds of peaches in half, remove pits, toss them with enough grape seed oil to moisten and grill them, cut side down, on very hot grill 1 minute.  Remove, chop coarsely, and set aside.

Place wine, peaches, sugar, and vanilla bean in a large saucepot.  Wrap cinnamon, anise, bay leaf, and peppercorns in a piece of cheescloth, tie securely, and place in pot.  Bring soup to a light boil and let boil 2 minutes.  Reduce heat to a low simmer, cover, and simmer slowly 1 hour (try not to let liquid reduce).

Remove cheescloth, spices, vanilla bean, and puree mixture in a blender until smooth.  Strain through a medium-mesh strainer, add a pinch of salt and chill.

When ready to serve, slice remaining 2 peaches.  Serve soup garnished with yogurt, sliced peaches, and toasted hazelnuts.

Note: to toast hazelnuts, toast in 350 - degree oven 18 minutes, tossing every 5 minutes.  While still warm, rub with a towel to remove skins.  Sprinkle on salt.