Archive for September, 2009

A Story I Love To Tell

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009

A story I love to tell

Caesar salad is perhaps the most popular and wide spread salad anywhere. I don’t think I have worked in an establishment where Caesar salad wasn’t served in one form or another. IIt was invented by the Italian Caesar Cardini, in a restaurant in

Tijuana, Mexico. The story is that on a holiday weekend in 1924 supplies were running short and in a last minute improvisation Caesar said to one of his staff: “Take all of these ingredients to the table and make a real ceremony out of preparing that salad. I want the guest to feel that they are getting the house speciality prepared for them”. So it happened and perhaps the most famous of salads today was born, “prepared a la minute” in an improvised setting. I love that story mainly because I believe that we chefs excel so much when the pressure is on and the heat levels are up in our kitchens. It just brings out the best in us.

Below are both recipes - the one for “a la minute” (table side preparation in front of your guest) and the recipe for the caesar dressing prepared ahead of time. Whichever method you prefer, once the salad is tossed it needs to be sprinkled with Parmesan, and croutons. These recipes are compliments of my notes from culinary school.   Our table side caesar salad from the Caterina Di Medici Restaurant - one of the great restaurants at The Culinary Institute of America

What you’ll need lettuce & toppings

  • 300 g (10 oz) romaine lettuce, well washed and patted dry, torn by hand into bite size pieces
  • 40 g (1 1/3 oz) Parmesan cheese, I like the cheese shaved, but it can be grated, for garnish
  • 30 g (1 oz) croutons


Table-side Preperation

  • 3 anchovies, mashed to paste
  • 1/2 lemon, juice only, squeezed
  • 1 tbsp. Dijon mustard
  • 1 tbsp. garlic mashed or very finely chopped
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 1 dash Worcestershire sauce
  • pepper from the mill
  • salt
  • 1 tbsp. bacon bits
  • 1 1/2 tbsp. Parmesan cheese, grated
  • 3 tbsp. virgin olive oil
  • 1 tbsp. red wine vinegar


Caesar dressing (yields approximately 500 ml)

  • 15 g (1/2 oz) garlic, cloves mashed or chopped very finely
  • 20 g (2/3 oz) anchovy fillets, drained off the oil, mashed
  • 15 g (1/2 oz) Parmesan cheese, grated
  • 2 pc egg yolk
  • 5 ml (1/6 fl oz) Worcestershire sauce
  • 240 ml (8 fl oz) vegetable oil, good quality pure vegetable oil
  • 5 ml (1/6 fo oz) lemon juice, freshly squeezed
  • 90 ml (3 fl oz) virgin olive oil
  • 90 g (3 oz) Dijon mustard
  • 60 ml (2 fl oz) red wine vinegar
  • salt
  • pepper from the mill
 

 

 

What to do
For table side preparation

  • In your salad bowl combine the anchovies, garlic and the Dijon mustard. Mix well, then add the egg yolk, Parmesan cheese and season well.
  • Combine well, stir vigorously until slightly foamy.
  • Add the virgin olive oil in a slow stream while keeping the mixture in motion, this will prevent the dressing from splitting.
  • Add the red wine vinegar little by little whenever the mixture is getting too thick and alternate until both the red wine vinegar and the virgin olive oil are fully incorporated.
  • Season with the lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce and salt and pepper.
  • Toss with the romaine leaves and ensure all leaves are well coated. Place the leaves on the serving plate and sprinkle with the Parmesan shavings, and croutons.

For the dressing

  • In a blender, puree all solid ingredients with the red wine vinegar.
  • Add the egg yolks and slowly add the vegetable oil and virgin olive oil to the mixture while the blender is rotating on medium speed.
  • Toss with the romaine leaves with the prepared dressing ensuring that all leaves are well coated.
  • Place the leaves on the serving plate and sprinkle with the Parmesan shavings and croutons

Maintaining the friendship between you and your knives

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009

One of the first things they teach in culinary school is how to look after your knives.  There’s good reason for that as well.  Without a nice edge on your knife how can you julienne carrots, dice onions, shave garlic, slice mushrooms and all the other great things they teach you in those early years.  As discussed in “Knives Getting Them Sharp” running them along a stone is the best way to put an edge on your blades.  From there and virtually every time you see your knives you will want to steel them as outlined below.

 What you will need

*  Knives - invest in good ones - Henckels, Global, Wustoff, Mac, Forschener, Shun

*  A sharpening steel (long round or oval shaped rod with a handle)

What to do

If your knives are currently very dull, you will need to first check as running a knife along a steel will not put a sharp edge on it.

Running a knife along the steel only refreshes the edge already on there.

Running a dull knife on a steel will not give it an edge.

If your knives are sharp please follow steps outlined below.

A steel can be used in a couple of different ways and before we proceed, it does not matter how fast you do this as the result is the same.  So start slow and be careful!

If you are not too comfortable with the idea of waving a knife around a steel rod in mid air then you may wish to place the tip of the steel on a cutting board and hold it vertical with one hand and the knife with the other.

With the blade pointing down place the base of the left side of the blade against the right side of the steel.

Maintaining a 17-22 degree slide the blade downwards along the steel.  As you bring the blade to the tip of the steel pull the blade towards you so that by the time the blade reaches the tip of the steel the whole blade has slid across the steel.

Now place the right side of the blade at the top of the left side of the steel and repeat the process.

For sharpening in mid air, hold the steel in your left hand hold it in the position of pointing at 2 o’clock.

With the knife in your right hand and with the blade pointing to your left hold the knife in the position of pointing at 12 o’clock.

Place the base of the blade on the front of the steel at the tip of the steel.

As you sweep, pretend the knife is a hand of a clock turning backwards.

As the tip of the knife comes off the steel near the handle it should be pointing between 9-10 o’clock.

Repeat the process on the back of the steel and then again on the front.

Do this 3-4 times per side.

Regardless of which of the above process you choose to steel your knives, if you do it every time you start preparing your meal you will maintain the life of your nice sharp blades.

The Midas Touch

Tuesday, September 15th, 2009

 nirvana.jpg

Who would believe that the most expensive culinary ingredient in the world at around $46,000 per pound would actually have no aroma and no flavor?  But for thousands of years ancient cooks to modern day chefs have been adorning their food with this glittering ingredient that is pure gold.  Edible gold is pure 24 carats that is mixed with a tiny amount of silver before being flattened and then turned into flakes, dust, leaves, and even a spray.  Then it becomes much more affordable in these smaller quantities and can glisten up many a dish.

A photo of my chocolate nirvana - a dense chocolate cake garnished with gold leaf.  And one of my favorite beverages with gold - Gold Schlagger.  Anyone care for a shot?

Eat Healthier And Cheaper At Home

Wednesday, September 2nd, 2009

With the economy mired in a downturn and household balance sheets in the red, it is only natural that many are looking for ways to trim food expenditures.  The question is, can it be done without compromising flavor or nutrition?

Here are some ideas of things I do in my professional kitchen that would work for the home cook as well.

Cook at home - Learning to cook is one of the best ways to save money.  It is a relaxing, pleasurable activity that not only saves money but promotes good health.  Get the whole family involved.  Kids like to be engaged and have responsibilites.

Buy on sale - Check out your supermarket’s weekly discounted items before you shop, and plan meals based on what’s on special.  With so many great recipes at your fingertips, both in cookbooks and online, you can find a delicious way to prepare anything.  Buy marked-down, slightly bruised fruit and vegetables to use in soups, stews, juice, or smoothies.  Blanch and freeze extras.  Visit the “marked down for quick sale” bins for gently dented, but perfectly good canned goods.

Buy what’s in season - Shop for affordable seasonal ingredients at farmers markets.

Shop smart - Make a shopping list and don’t shop hungry.  A list keeps you focused and away from impulse shopping.

Use less protein - Use smaller amounts of meat as part of a stir-fry, or in a main-course salad.

Use what you have - use all leftovers and shop your pantry for items to cook that have been sitting there for a while.

Small Innovations

Tuesday, September 1st, 2009

Sometimes it’s the small innovations that make my day.  Normally, I reheat pizza in a skillet for a crisp bottom and melted cheese.  This method works well if you don’t want to turn on the oven and if you don’t mind the fact that the top of the crust remains a bit soggy. 

Tonight I needed to reheat pizza for two so I pulled out the griddle.  Unfortunately without the high sides to help keep the heat in, the cheese wasn’t melting.  As I stared at the slices, trying to melt the cheese through the force of my mind I had an epiphany.  I could simply flip the pizza over.  The crust would brown and the cheese would not only melt, it would become crispy and caramelized like a frico  making the leftover pizza into something possibly better than the real thing.  It worked perfectly and I crunched and chewed happily wondering why on earth I never thought of doing that before.