If you’re looking for a change of pace, flavor for your next soup, quiche or salad, consider giving the role to the leek, a vegetable that deserves the attention. A kissing cousin of garlic and onion, with a sweeter and more subdued flavor, the leek is eminently versatile, though sadly underappreciated, at least in

America.

In

Europe leeks are a cooking staple prized for their warm and onion flavor when cooked and almost buttery flavor when chopped and sautéed. Leeks are an essential ingredient in soups like French vichyssoise (cold potato leek soup) and Scottish cockaleekie soup. They give flavor to stews such as the French pot-au-feu and are also used for stocks, appetizers and salads.

For salads and delicate dishes it is best to use tender young leeks about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Larger than this they become tougher and stronger flavored but are still fine for soups and stews. Avoid those with dried-out leaves or bulbous bases.

To prepare leeks for cooking remove any withered outer leaves and trim and discard the green upper leaves down to where the green begins to pale. Cut off the roots and unless you want to cook them whole, slice the leeks lengthwise. Rinse well to remove sand and grit that often lodges between the layers. To cook whole leeks, arrange the leeks in one layer in the bottom of a large saucepan, and pour in boiling water or stock until they’re half covered. Season with salt and pepper partially cover the pan and simmer till tender, about 12 minutes or more, depending on size and age. 

For a richer flavor, sauté the leeks whole in butter until they’re barely colored before cooking or cook chopped leeks in butter in a covered saucepan over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

To grill leeks, trim off the roots and the upper leaves, leaving just about 2 inches of green above the white. Slice in half lengthwise, rinse carefully, and drain. Place on metal skewers, brush with oil and grill cut side down over medium-hot coals for 7 to 10 minutes. Turn again and continue grilling for 5 to 7 minutes, or until tender.

Vichyssoise

1 stick (4 ounces) butter
5 cups chopped leeks
2 stalks celery, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
3 to 4 cups roughly chopped potatoes
2 quarts chicken stock or water
2 cups heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
3 to 4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives.

Melt butter in a large saucepan, add leeks, celery and onion and stew slowly until golden and soft, about 10 minutes. Do not brown. Add potatoes and chicken stock or water, cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are cooked through, 20 to 40 minutes, depending on potatoes’ age and how finely they’re chopped.

Puree soup till totally blended. Add cream, season with salt, and pepper to taste.   Cover and chill for at least 30 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings before serving. Garnish with a sprinkling of chives on each portion.

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